By Lakshmi Priya Baskaran
Imagine travelling along an ancient route where pilgrims once traversed the diverse landscapes of India, journeying from the sacred city of Kashi in the north to Rameshwaram in the south. Along this path, pilgrims found refuge in the Chatrams—rest houses that were more than mere shelters (Dhamodharan, 1988). These architectural gems provided not just a place to sleep, but a sanctuary for learning, healing and community gathering.
Chatrams: A Forgotten Legacy on the Sacred Pilgrimage Route
The Chatrams were central to the pilgrimage experience, offering pilgrims a place to pause and reconnect with both their spiritual journey and the world around them. Schools within these compounds educated the young, hospitals provided care, and raw rations were distributed to families in need, making these structures integral to both religious and community lives (Linderman, 2013). They represented a unique fusion of public service and spiritual devotion, reflecting the shared values of care and hospitality that defined the region.
About This Blog Series
This is the seventh blog post of the series of 24 blogs prepared by graduate students and early career professionals who shared their views on the future of heritage and landscape planning.
The writers of these blogposts participated in the Heriland Blended Intensive Programme “Heritage and the Planning of Landscapes” in October 2024 in Gothenburg, Sweden.
Time has not been kind to these once-vibrant hubs. As modern transportation evolved, fewer pilgrims made the journey on foot, leading to a drastic decline in the use of the Chatrams. British colonization further disrupted the traditional roles these sites played, altering local governance and introducing new administrative systems. What was once lively, bustling places filled with travellers now stand as forgotten remnants of a bygone era.
This blog focuses on a small yet significant section of the pilgrimage route (Figure 2&3) located within Tamil Nadu’s Thanjavur district, where a cluster of these historical Chatrams still exists in ruins. Built during the Thanjavur Maratha rule (17th to mid-19th century), these structures bear silent witness to a time before colonisation, when they were bustling centres of spiritual and communal life. Exploring these remnants, I was struck not only by their architectural beauty but also by the pressing question: how can we breathe new life into these forgotten spaces?
Fading Echoes of the Past
Today, the Chatrams lie in a state of disrepair—crumbling walls, overgrown gardens and shattered windows tell the story of neglect (Figure 4). The once vivid hues that adorned their facades have faded and the echoes of laughter, devotion and community that once filled these spaces have been replaced by silence. The physical decay mirrors a sense of abandonment.
One might think that the stakeholders responsible for heritage conservation would act to protect such valuable cultural landmarks, but the reality is far more complex and disheartening. The Chatram Administration, a department dedicated to the maintenance and preservation of these sites, has largely neglected its duty. Despite its clear mandate to care for these structures, the administration often overlooks them, viewing the Chatrams as lesser-known relics with little potential for profit.
In a region where heritage is celebrated, the Chatrams remain overshadowed by the grandeur and global attention directed toward larger, more recognised monuments—such as the Brihadeshwara Temple, a UNESCO World Heritage Site (Figure 5). The allure of tourism revenue often eclipses the quieter, but equally important, contributions of the Chatrams to the cultural fabric of the area. Politically driven priorities and conflicts have only deepened this oversight, relegating the Chatrams to the background, despite their critical role in shaping the spiritual and social landscape of the past.
Forgotten by the Present, Crucial for the Future
What happened to the local communities who once relied on these Chatrams? Are they even aware of their significance?
Despite their undeniable historical and cultural importance, the memory of the Chatrams has largely faded from the minds of the very people who live around them today. There is a disconnect between the rich past and the present, where development and modernization have shifted focus away from heritage that doesn’t promise immediate economic returns. A top-down moment one must call.
Yet, it is precisely this forgotten legacy that holds the key to a more comprehensive understanding of cultural preservation. The historical significance of this pilgrimage route has all but disappeared from public consciousness—with only fragments of memory preserved by historians who strive to keep this legacy alive. Revitalising the Chatrams requires more than just physical restoration; it demands a reawakening of collective memory and a re-engagement with the local communities.
Breathing Life Back into the Chatrams
The Chatrams represent more than just architectural relics; they demand a deeper, holistic understanding of the natural and cultural landscapes that shaped these sacred journeys. The tangible heritage of the Chatrams and the intangible, living landscape surrounding them are intricately intertwined, each influencing the other and contributing to the overall pilgrimage experience. The question we must ask ourselves now is: how can we breathe new life into these forgotten treasures?
The answer lies in repurposing them for contemporary use while respecting their historical significance. With proper restoration, these Chatrams can reclaim their historical role as centres of hospitality, culture, and community life. Imagine them hosting travellers and pilgrims once again, serving as affordable accommodation, cultural venues, or even education hubs.
In contemporary India, heritage sites are often viewed as inconsequential to development rather than being integrated into development plans as functional spaces. There is a need to repurpose heritage sites like the Chatrams beyond mere preservation and museum-like settings, transforming them into vibrant, usable spaces that contribute to community life and tourism much like they did in their heyday.
A particularly promising approach to revitalising these spaces is to connect selected Chatrams along a cultural trail retracing the historical pilgrimage routes, offering visitors an immersive experience that blends heritage, nature, and spirituality. This approach overlooks the immense potential of these sites to enrich community life and boost sustainable tourism.
However, funding remains a persistent challenge. The uncertainty surrounding the outcomes of reuse practices often deters investment. The Chatram Administration, as the primary stakeholder, and the Tamil Nadu State Department of Archaeology must take the lead in allocating resources for restoration. Beyond this, a collaborative funding strategy could include NGOs (Cultural Organizations), Public Contributions and Private Partnerships. Community involvement is key to success. Awareness campaigns, local clean-up drives, and small-scale cultural events hosted at the Chatrams can foster a sense of ownership among residents. When locals see these spaces as assets for their communities, the revival becomes more meaningful and sustainable.
As Editor Aravindan Neelakandan poignantly remarks in his Swarajya article (Neelakandan, 2018) (Figure 6), which highlights the stark contrast between the historical role of Chatrams, which once provided dignified accommodation and hospitality to travellers, and the current lack of such facilities. It underscores the need for a revival that respects the historical value of Chatrams and reintegrates them into the cultural fabric of the region. In doing so, we would not only preserve their legacy but also create a lasting connection between the past, present and future; one that enriches both the local community and the broader cultural landscape.
Bibliography
G, Dhamodharan. Chatrams of Tamil Nadu. Chennai, Manikavasagam Publishing House, 1988.
ICOMOS, Declaration of Amsterdam. Amsterdam: Congress on the European Architectural Heritage, 21-25 October 1975. http://www.icomos.org.tr/Dosyalar/ICOMOSTR_en0458431001536681780.pdf
Kannan, Roshni. “Deconstructing the Stylistic Intersections of the Chathrams of Tanjore through Historic Trajectories.” (Unpublished Master thesis), Ahmedabad: CEPT University, 2020.
Linderman, Michael C. “Royal Accommodations: Institutionalized Hospitality in Raja Serfoji II’s Pilgrim Rest Houses in Early Colonial South India.” International Journal of Commercial Hospitality and Management 25, (2013) 2: 187–203.
Neelakandan, Aravindan. “Revisiting ‘Chatrams’: The Indic Dormitories That Were More Than Just That.” Swarajya by Kovai Media Private Limited, 2018. https://swarajyamag.com/culture/revisiting-chatrams-the-indic-dormitories-that-were-more-than-just-that.
About the Author
Lakshmi Priya Baskaran is an architect specialising in the conservation of monuments and sites. This blog post draws inspiration from her hometown, Thanjavur, where her experiences sparked a desire to shed light on lesser-known architectural treasures.
Her passion lies in reimagining heritage spaces as vibrant, functional parts of community life. Her professional experience spans architectural design and restoration research, focusing on uncovering the stories of forgotten heritage and exploring sustainable methods to integrate them into modern contexts. Through her work, she strives to preserve the past while creating a meaningful dialogue between history and the present.
Contact the author: lakshmi_priya_@outlook.com